When these museum release wines waft past my olfactory gear, I'll often sit there pondering how lucky we are to have producers, in the current climate, who will hold wines back when the are hitting peak drinking. I salute you all. Straw in the glass with a swirl of complex aromas featuring drying hay, toasted brioche, Bickford's lime cordial, pressed citrus blossom, dried mushrooms, cultured butter, perhaps some curry leaf, crushed quartz and lemon barley further back. Still crystalline and focused despite all the toasty complexity, with a cadence and length that many would aspire to.